To prevent this spread, clean your blades off between each plant. This is similar to shaking hands with someone who has just sneezed into their hands and now is shaking yours. Pruners cutting branches infested with powdery mildew or rust risk spreading the spores on the pruner blades to another plant. Prevention against disease is a focus of all rose gardeners and should start at the pruning stage. This author has found this so beneficial that after 6 hours of pruning, the fingers and knuckles are ready for the next day's onslaught of pruning. Bahco pruners, which were designed for the grape growers, have this feature. An added bonus is getting one with a swivel handle that turns with your finger motion. The extra money is well worth the rewards. These pruners come in different hand sizes and also for lefties. This is one area you should spend top dollar to get the best pruner.
Getting a quality bypass pruner is a must. The repetitive motion used to prune is hard on the hand and particularly the fingers. Protect yourself as much as possible with long sleeves preventing the question do you have a cat or roses? There are several products to help you: West County Rose Gloves or adding a pair of Garden Gators to cover your arms. These cuffs should be stiff and impermeable to puncture. Leather gloves with extra long cuffs will do the trick. Wearing long sleeves will not shield you from the prickles. The garden gloves that sustain us throughout the season will not protect us as we reach deep within the plants, pulling and chopping branches. What do we all dread the most about his chore? The thorns, of course. We do not have that prolonged cold to force our roses to rest, which we force on our roses by a heavy pruning and leaf removal. The winter pruning season is a dreaded chore but necessary for the Southern California rose grower. And while we're talking about giving bugs a break, consider the next rule: This may be true where it's below freezing and the borers are all dead, but having personally lost more canes to borers than I care to disclose, I can guarantee you that if there is one borer in your neighborhood that is still alive, it'll drill a hole right into the end of your cane and deposit a creature that, if disregarded, will eat its way all the way to the bud union. Ignore those who claim you needn't seal in the winter because the cane borers are not active. A drop of Elmer's or any white glue is fast and easy. Forget also the common instructions about sealing with shellac (who can find shellac anymore?) or nail polish or God forbid, the black, oily spray-on sealing goop that invariably gets sprayed on the bud eye, forever sealing it from growth. Pencil-thick stems produce matchstick-thick stems that produce pin-thick stems that produce roses that only the thick-headed could love. Why, you may ask, should you consider leaving stems smaller than a pencil? A stem growing from another cane will never be larger than its source. Most instructional pieces on pruning advise you to seal cuts on stems larger than a pencil. This brings us to a very important and seemingly heartless rule: If you haven't got any, double check your eyesight and if there are really no eyes of promise conclude that God didn't intend the cane to live anyway. A cut to an inner facing eye in such cases will usually produce a cane that goes straight up, the best way for roses to grow.) What if there are no properly placed bud eyes? Find one and work with what you've got.
This is particularly true of bushes that tend to naturally grow horizontally. (Where the canes come out at a 45 degree or greater angle, a cut to the outside facing eye can often result in a horizontally spreading bush with canes that fall of their own weight. But it is not necessary to be slavish to the outside eye rule.
There should be several and the generally preferred one faces out. Sometimes they are obvious other times less so. They will also develop from what looks like an expanded band on the cane. Bud eyes are found at the intersection of the cane and a leaflet of five. If you are unusually lucky, exactly 2/3rds of the way up the cane (or l/3rd down depending on whether you have now stood up) will be an outward facing bud eye.
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